Start them off right

The first summer is most vital for newly planted trees. New trees become established during this time, striking and anchoring roots into soil to support them for years to come. It’s also the time when most new plantings fail. Your customers are planting trees for all the right reasons — shade, beauty and all the environmental benefits — so ensure they succeed by providing information and products to help their new planting make it through that pivotal first summer and beyond.

Below are some tips for keeping young trees healthy. If you have a place where you can demonstrate these techniques and feature related products, you can increase sales and customer goodwill.
 

Water

Proper watering is crucial for the survival of newly planted trees. Roots can’t grow without it, and healthy root development makes or breaks a tree’s transition from nursery to landscape. Trees need regular deep watering during the first two to three years of growth. The aim is to provide consistent soil moisture without creating a swamp (and overwatering).

Water when the root mass or root ball is partially dry – not when surrounding soil is dry. If roots haven’t struck into surrounding soil, basing irrigation frequency on the surrounding soil won’t meet the tree’s needs.

One option is to construct double, concentric watering basins. The first should be placed just outside the root ball; the second about 2 feet beyond that. Fill the inner basin with water to wet the root ball, and then use the outer one to wet the surrounding soil. Until the roots of the tree extend into the native soil, the inner circle will have to be filled with water once a week in normal weather (and usually more than once a week in hot weather). The outer circle can be filled less often, with frequency dependent on the climate and soil, but usually every two to three weeks.

After the tree’s first year in the ground, the inner circle can be broken down or removed. When you water after that point, make sure the water penetrates the entire root area. This means filling a 6- to 8-inch-high basin two or three times at each watering. Encourage customers to check soil moisture by digging gently or using a soil probe.

Using drip irrigation is an excellent way to water young trees. Just make sure customers understand that drip systems water at a slow rate and often need to be run for long periods to wet the entire root zone. Systems also need to be checked frequently for clogs and additional emitters as the trees grow. Water can also be applied directly to the root mass or root ball of the new tree by placing a slow-trickling hose alongside the trunk.

Automated lawn sprinkler systems rarely provide enough moisture for a young tree. Usually designed to run frequently and to wet the depth of grass roots (6 to 8 inches deep), they encourage shallow roots and may not provide enough water to sustain a newly planted tree. Encourage customers to check soil moisture before relying on lawn systems for tree irrigation and if necessary, supply supplemental irrigation.
 

Mulch

No new tree should leave the nursery without a few bags of mulch. Mulch helps young trees in many ways: moderating soil temperatures, retaining soil moisture and suppressing weeds. It also helps prevent grass from growing directly against the trunk, which can dramatically slow a tree’s establishment. And remind customers how a fresh layer of mulch makes every new planting look better. Recommend that your customers maintain a 3-inch-thick mulch layer around young trees and replenish the mulch as needed throughout the growing season.

Finally, keep mulch at least 6 inches away from the tree trunk. Mulch piled against the trunk holds moisture and heat, providing habitat for insects, rodents and diseases such as canker.
 

Staking

Young trees often need staking, especially if the planting site is windy or a tree is top-heavy. However, make sure your customers know that staking is not forever, so stakes should be checked often and removed as soon as the tree can stand on its own.

Any tightly attached stakes that came with the tree should be removed at planting. If the tree can’t stand upright on its own or if it needs protection, two sturdy stakes should be installed on opposite sides of the trunk outside the root ball. Secure the trunk to each post with flexible ties, either cloth or plastic. The tree should not be tied too tightly because you want it to be able to sway a bit in the wind and develop a stronger trunk. Remove the ties when the tree can stand on its own, usually after one year.
 

Trunk protection

The trunks of young trees are often damaged by car doors, lawn mowers and weed eaters. Stakes can provide some protection, but you can also offer plastic trunk guards, an inexpensive but effective method of protecting the trunk.
 

Pruning

In most cases, newly planted trees should be pruned as little as possible, if at all. Pruning can slow establishment and invite insect pests. Only prune diseased or damaged branches or those that are in the way. Pruning to establish strong structure and shape is best delayed until the first dormant season.
 

Fertilizer

Newly planted trees should be fertilized lightly, if at all. If the tree grows poorly — meaning yellowing foliage and no new growth — apply a complete fertilizer using the instructions on the label.
 

Protection from pests and diseases

Even the most expertly planted tree can experience stress that can increase its vulnerability to insects or diseases. New trees need every leaf to generate internal food supplies and speed up establishment. Encourage customers to be aware of potential problems and inspect trees regularly for insects and diseases, and be ready to answer their questions.

Lance is the author of "Lawn Care for Dummies" and serves as the lawn & garden expert for Bayer Advanced, who recently launched its “Healthy Trees for Life” initiative, aimed at raising awareness of tree health and maintenance.